I started reading the word gemutlichkeit a few years ago in some literary reviews. I still don't know exactly what it means, but I can use it in a sentence. Isn't that the way life is: I haven't figured it out yet, but I can fake my way through it. It was when I heard 'gemutlichkeit' in a country song called "I'm gonna take you home (and make you love me)" by Robbie Fulks that I knew the word had arrived. (Although I bet it's the only known use of the word in American pop song history.) I've tried saying it to some locals here in Salzburg with varying degrees of failure. Mostly I get quizzical looks. You can get the same reaction when you mention The Sound of Music to any Salzburgian under age 25. They've never heard of it. Sabine, who rented bikes out to 27 of our kids this morning, said only Americans are the ones who want to bike the do-re-me streets. She also was not worried that our possibly rain-soaked riders would ditch their bikes along the river. "You and Tim have come here every year for 5 years, and your kids have always been extremely responsible. " She called them kids too.
So Salzburg is categorically gemutlichkeit, and that is a good thing. We had perfect weather in the morning for the Salt Mines tour--everyone made on the bus this year!--and crazy Archbishop Marcus Sitticus's mansion and Trick fountains. (I have pictures in the week two link.) And then the rain came. But it was more a benediction then a Debbie downer. Last night the fussball party-ers watched with hundreds of Turkish and German fans the game outside at the Bismark Platz while four boys--Garrett D., Michael K., Theo N. and Matt O.,--and six girls--Hillary D., Christine D., Devon D., Nicole E., Amy G., Michelle Y, and Michelle Y.--went for highbrow entertainment. They saw a string quartet perform Mozart pieces in the castle hovering above the city. It was incredible, they said, as the quartet finished with "Eine Kleine Nacht Musique." The one that goes: Doot, (pause) da Doot, (pause) da Doot da Doot da Doot.
That's gemutlichkeit to my ears.
Tonight, it's cards in the Augustiner. Let the Hearts poseurs emerge.
Truly but wryly,
LV
P.S. I think some of the girls are in love with our Portuguese coach driver, Rui. They think he's actually a secret agent.
Week 2 Photo link: http://gallery.mac.com/mjhoeger/100026.
3 comments:
I look forward to your postings, often checking the computer several times a day to see if there is a new one! If so, I read and re-read it, enjoying the snippets of what appears to be a wonderful trip that balances Seeing the Great Sites with Having Fun. My kid is evidently too busy enjoying the adventure to report in as much detail (I do get a few sentences every so often!) so it is especially nice to read your well-written paragraphs! Thanks for taking the kids on such a terrific trip and updating us along the way!
All loving the blog. Here is news in brief from the homefront... Louis emailed you the scoop on the NBA draft. We are all going to Jake's zonals in Tucson. Nora keeps asking me detailed London geography questions --obviously excited for next year. Maddy is cooking Italian tonight. Life is good. Keep blogging. Sounds like a great group of kids.
i concur. schadenfreude is bad, but only in reality tv!
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